It was one of those sunny April Sundays where the weather is simply too good to waste indoors. Less than two hours later, we were pulling into Nafplio.

Nafplio is easily one of the best choices for a quick getaway or day trip. The drive is smooth and stress-free, mostly a modern highway, followed by a short stretch of well-paved regional road through the Argolida countryside. But as anyone who has tried visiting on a warm weekend knows, the closer you get to the capital, the crazier the traffic gets.

Here is a quick tip to save your sanity before you even start exploring.

If you head straight for the main waterfront parking lot on a Sunday afternoon, you will likely spend 20 minutes crawling behind bumper-to-bumper traffic.

Instead, skip the central harbor strip entirely. Head slightly further north toward the town swimming pool (Kolymvitirio) near the edge of the port area. There is plenty of open-air free parking there. We found a spot in seconds, parked without any fuss, and took a breezy 5-minute walk along the coastal promenade right toward the boat docks.

The small sea fortress sits on the islet of Saint Agioi Theodoroi, anchored right at the entrance of Nafplio’s harbor.

To get there, head to the waterfront near the center of the promenade where the small wooden boats (kaikia) dock. If you arrive relatively early in the day, there are virtually no queues. You hop on, pay a couple of euros for the round-trip ticket, and within 5 to 10 minutes, you are stepping onto the stone quay of the islet.

Pro Tip: Catching an early morning boat means you will have the narrow stone pathways and battlements almost entirely to yourself before the midday crowds arrive.

Before you step foot inside, it helps to know that this tiny island has lived many completely different lives over the centuries.

After the fall of Constantinople, the Venetians recognized Nafplio’s strategic position and commissioned Italian architect Vittore Pasqualigo to construct a fortress on the islet. They named it Castello dello Scoglio (Castle of the Rock).

The Ottoman Era & The Name

When the Ottoman Empire took control, the island acquired its current name: Bourtzi, derived from the Ottoman-Turkish word bourg/burch, meaning “tower” or “bastion.”

Why it was called “The Chain Castle”

During Venetian rule, the defense strategy was ingenious. A massive iron chain was stretched underwater all the way from the fortress to the mainland shore (near Palamidi). This physically blocked enemy ships and pirates from entering the harbor undetected.

The Executioners’ Refuge

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Bourtzi took on a darker role. It became the official residence of the executioners who operated the guillotine at the formidable Palamidi Fortress above the town. Because executioners were deeply hated by the local population, they were housed safely on the islet to protect them from public revenge.

Greece’s First Luxury Hotel

By the 1930s, the island completely reinvented itself. German architect Woldemar Schaeffer transformed the fortress into a boutique hotel! For decades, international celebrities, politicians, and high-society travelers stayed inside its historic walls until the late 1970s.

Walking around Bourtzi feels like stepping into a miniature stone labyrinth surrounded by deep blue water.

First, we walked around the outer perimeter walls, taking in the panoramic views of the Argolic Gulf on one side and the town of Nauplio backed by Palamidi Fortress on the other. Then, we made our way inside, climbing the stone stairs up to the top ramparts. From the highest point, you get a 360-degree view that makes you understand why military tacticians coveted this spot for centuries.

After snapping some photos and soaking in the sea breeze, we caught the boat back to the mainland.

Back on dry land, our spontaneous Sunday was far from over. We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering through Nafplio’s famous cobblestone alleys (sokakia), admiring the Venetian architecture, strolling down the pedestrian streets, and, naturally, stopping for some handmade Italian-style gelato.

If you ‘re looking for a rich history fix or just an easy day trip to recharge your batteries, taking the boat out to Bourtzi is an absolute must-do when visiting Nauplio.